Chess Time: Chess Clock Rules & How They Affect Strategy
What Is a Chess Clock?
A chess clock (often called ‘timers’ by the uninitiated) is a unique device that limits the time in which a chess game must be finished. A chess clock has two faces: one for your chess time and one for your opponent’s chess time. Chances are, if you’ve seen a chess clock in film or television, it may have looked something like this:
This is an example of an analog chess clock, in this case the Regulation Wooden Mechanical Chess Clock available at The House of Staunton. Just like regular, non-chess clocks, there are also digital versions. In fact, these have largely replaced analog clocks for reasons we’ll discuss further in the article.
The chess clock is usually set to count down, with the same amount of time given to both players at the start. The exception to this may be a casual game with a known, large disparity in playing strength, where time odds may help balance the game a bit.
A chess player may, for example, opt to play a “5-minute blitz game.” Blitz usually refers to casual (i.e., not under tournament conditions) games played at a fast time control. Here, each player would start with 5 minutes to complete all their moves in the game.
Only one of the players’ clocks counts down at a time - whichever player is then on the move. Meanwhile, the other player’s clock remains paused until a move is played and the clock button is pushed, again stopping/starting the corresponding clocks. This means what we call a “5-minute game” could really last a maximum of 10 minutes. This convention is also used when referring to tournament standard (classical) time controls.
Here we have a digital clock. With its clear display and smooth lever, it’s a clear favorite over the analog for most people. This one is the DGT North American Chess Clock. It’s also good for tournament play; you’ll likely see it at most USCF events.
What If I Run Out Of Time?
The player whose time runs out loses. In most (not all!) cases, it’s as simple as that. The technical chess term we use for time running out is a flag, or flagging. Please note: if spectating, it is considered bad etiquette to call a player’s flag. It is rather the responsibility of the opponent to do so. But why do we call it a flag to begin with?
Take another look at the analog clock pictured above. You’ll notice there is a small, red flag anchored between the “11” and “12.” The analog mechanism counts on the hand moving clockwise around the face, with the time expiring precisely as the hand reaches perfect upright “12.” As on the clock faces above, the clock hand pushes the plastic flag up upon its hinge. When “12” is reached, it falls back down.
Even though digital clocks are the norm today, you’ll still hear chess players say their “flag fell;” the DGT NA even shows a little digital flag on the display when it's time. Unfortunately for the analog clocks and their adherents, even when the internal mechanisms are perfectly well tuned (which often isn’t even the case), the sheer force of a player slamming the button after their move can knock down a flag.
This used to be a common occurrence in tournament play, particularly with time scrambles, or situations where both players face time trouble (low time remaining). It was so common that there are sections in the US Chess Federation Official Rules of Chess (namely 16F, 16G, 16H) dedicated to analog clocks and the unfortunate “Premature flag fall.” Fortunately, digital clocks eliminate this problem.
Increment vs. Delay: What Do They Mean and What’s the Difference?
Perhaps the most important improvement of digital clocks over analog ones is the capacity to program either an increment or a delay. Functionally, they’re quite similar concepts; essentially each player will receive a small amount (usually a maximum of 30 seconds) of “bonus time” per move. It’s rare to see a tournament time control without either of the two; this is usually known as a sudden death time control.
The bonus time per move allows players time for notating the game’s moves, and avoids the disorder of flying pieces etc. associated with sudden death time scrambles. As noted in this article, former World Chess Champion Bobby Fischer is credited with the creation of the increment. One of the primary motivations was to eliminate the case of a player flagging - and therefore losing - in a winning position.
Increment is a bit more common than delay. With the former, each time a player hits their clock the increment amount (lets say, 10 seconds) is added to their time. This means that after six consecutive (and instant) moves, you’ll have gained a minute.
On the other hand, a time delay never adds time to a player’s clock. Instead, the clock simply delays the start of its countdown for the amount stipulated by the time control. Keeping the 10-second example from above, if my opponent moves and I reply after nine seconds or less, I’ll have lost/gained no time on my clock.
Once more, increment and delay are functionally similar, although many (the International Chess Federation, or FIDE, and your humble author included) prefer the increment. Read on to find out why, as well as how the clock should be part of any chess player’s strategy.
Time Management In A Chess Game
If a player is slipping into time trouble, but counts on an increment, it can be useful to make moves quickly when a decision is simple - examples include obvious responses to a check or recapturing in the only way possible. The quick moves will build up a bit of time with the increment (but not with a delay), which can be used later when the move isn’t so obvious. However, the best advice for time trouble is to… avoid it altogether!
Though this is highlighted with time trouble, the simple fact that some moves are easy to make while others are more difficult is a key one to remember, even from the start. Keeping an organized internal dialogue is important when evaluating a position and deciding on a move. Too much meandering and distracted calculation can cost you precious minutes you may miss later on.
When you're still within your opening preparation or when there’s only one real option, it’s okay to move quickly. Don’t forget, we’re still allowed to think when it’s our opponent’s turn. There’s no need to waste time looking three or four moves down the variation when you’re already convinced of the first two moves.
Slowing Down and Keeping Track
Alternatively, it’s good to know when to slow down. This skill will improve with experience, but difficult choices often come in critical positions. Critical positions are those where the margin for error is low, for example, when the battle is sharp and full of tactics that could quickly decide the game in either player’s favor. Try to take your time in such positions, or when considering a committal move (e.g. a pawn structure transformation, or a material trade you can’t take back).
A good way to hone the skill of time management (and to make better use of your improved skill) is to record the clock times with every move on your scoresheet. Believe it or not, this is allowed by USCF rules and not considered “illegal note-taking.” When you record the time in your games, you can easily see how much time you’re spending on your decisions. You can adjust from there.
Reading Time Controls On A Tournament Posting
Great, so by now, you should feel quite comfortable with the concept of the chess clock and timed games in general. Hopefully this knowledge can empower you to decide to jump in and play a chess tournament. Now, if this is the case, you may find some of the nomenclature on chess tournament announcements a bit confusing. Here’s a quick guide:
"G/60" Read as “Game 60;” - one hour per player, sudden death.
"G/45", "inc/5", or "G/45 +5" - 45 minutes per player with a five-second increment.
"G/25 d10" - 25 minutes per player with a ten-second delay.
"40/90, SD/30 + 30" - This format is somewhat complicated, but it can be read as: “40 moves in 90 minutes, sudden death thirty minutes, with a thirty-second increment.”
Such multi-stage time controls are mostly seen in large or national events. In this example, each player is given 90 minutes for their first forty moves. If the game continues past move forty, both players will have thirty minutes added to their time. “Sudden death” in this context means “final time control” rather than “no increment.” Unless explicitly noted, the thirty-second increment will be in effect from the first move.
Conclusion
Many people become nervous when first introduced to the idea of a timed chess game. Just remember; the opponent must also operate with limited time. Without clocks, games could last forever. They could also leave unpunished a player that’s using much more time than their opponent. Try playing online first if you’re nervous; the rest should follow.
FAQ
Can I pause the clock for a bathroom break?
No, the clock should only be paused to make a claim to the TD / arbiter.
Should I play quickly to flag my opponent?
Remember, a good position and a checkmate will also decide the game. Don’t be too reckless; bad moves can cause irreparable damage, even with a time advantage.